This is the first of our ambassador posts.  We currently have eight ambassadors working with us.  These guys will sew garments for us using our products in exchange for store credit.  Sue's first up and we LOVE her Merchant & Mills Ellsworth Shirt.  She has been so clever with the fabric use too.  This is a summary of Sue's pattern review.  You can find more detailed instructions on sewing the placket over on her blog. Over to Sue:

As one of the new team of Backstitch Ambassadors I relished the chance to go along to their gorgeous store at Burwash Manor to browse the fabrics and patterns. Actually, to be completely honest, I already had an idea that I would like to make the newish Merchant and Mills Ellsworth shirt but I had an open mind about fabric choice. In my head I was looking for a lightweight linen-type but as soon as my eyes alighted on the checked double gauze I was all in for that! It was folded on the bolt with the large check visible on the outside but when I discovered the reverse was small checks my mind was blown and I knew I could mix the two sides to create a unique garment. There are 4 colours to choose from but I settled on the pretty shell pink variation. I took 2m as per the pattern instructions but after cutting it out (and as I’ve found before with M&M patterns) I had almost 50cms left over, even allowing for pattern matching. It’s very annoying when this happens and I’ve made a note for next time.

 

The Ellsworth is typical of many of M&M’s aesthetic, it’s a very boxy and loose fit shirt with stepped hem, a collar and button placket and cropped, cuffed sleeves. It will lend itself towards fabrics which have an element of fluidity and drape such as soft linen or cotton-types, light woollens, crepe, chambray or babycord. Some light- or medium-weight jerseys would be okay too but probably not ones with a lot of stretch.

Another reason for choosing this shirt (apart from the fact I liked it anyway) is because I had seen a few makers on Instagram were having trouble interpreting the instructions for the placket. I hope what follows will give you a bit more information and guidance.

I gave the fabric a prewash first, it’s light loose weave will shrink a little [it will be very crinkly when it comes out of the machine but don’t panic, it will press flat again. You may ultimately prefer the crinkles but they will be hard to work with during the making process so press as you go for now]

If you are a person with no patience when it comes to laying up your fabric, or time is tight, then this may not be the fabric choice for you because it does need some careful laying up and folding to get the checks straight and matching [or you could decide to cut every piece on the flat] There were a couple of places where, in spite of my best efforts I was bit off but I won’t tell you where they were and you might not notice anyway! It does have the advantage of the large check being 3cms square and the reverse is 1cm squares so a 1cm or 1.5cm seam allowance shouldn’t be a problem to follow.

I’m really pleased with how the Ellsworth has come out, it’s a casual shape which you can use across the seasons, teamed with trousers or a skirt, or even layered over a dress.

I’m delighted to write for Backstitch because it’s a lovely little shop which I’ve been visiting for a few years now. It’s in a beautiful location and sells a really nice, well-considered range of quality fabrics and indie patterns. As Ambassadors we are provided with gift vouchers to shop in the store, it’s entirely up to us what we make and how much of those vouchers we spend, the balance can be kept to spend on another occasion if we choose to.

Pattern: Merchant & Mills The Ellsworth
Fabric: Double Sided Double Gauze: Checks: Old Rose
Size: Sue measures Bust 39”, Height 5’5”. Sue made the size 12.
Adjustments: No adjustments!
Notes on construction: The placket was a bit tricky, but further notes and explanation can be found on Sue’s Blog.
Notes on future makes: The bias strip in the sleeve facing is very narrow and would be better being a bit wider in future makes.