Ambassador Post: Emma's Closet Core Nicks Dress

At the start of last year or maybe even before that I know I wanted more 'plain' (if I dare say that!) pieces in my wardrobe. Having staples like this allows me to pair other garments or add to ad outfit be it made or make plans to make something else.

The Nicks Dress was a favourite when it was released and it has a great size: 0-20 and 14-32, which goes up to a bust of 60”/152.5cm, Waist 53”/134.5cm and hips of 63”/260cm.  It’s set for the intermediate sewist and I think that’s due to the sheer amount of gathering as well as Rouleau loops and pleats. For me, the dress took over 8 hours to make, sewn up over two maybe three days. Believe me, it was the bonkers amount of gathering that got to me - ice cream was on hand to eat my feelings! 

Shall we talk about the fabric now? Ok, you must now I love a viscose, especially a challis and heck does Backstitch have a rainbow of colours to choose from! I’ve already got some of the navy (3m) set aside for some floaty trousers but I went with the “Persian Red” viscose challis for the Nicks Dress - 5.5m to be precise! Yes, buyer beware as this dress is very, very fabric hungry. I love this fabric as it’s really affordable at £9 p/m and the drape is just chef’s kiss!

Why red? Well, I had plans to wear it round about Christmas but ahem, life had other plans and it’s been a ride! I’m not really ready to off load and this isn’t the place to do it but I want to be transparent about why this make and blog post was and had been delayed for so long.  And, I’m now thinking that Red isn’t just for festivities at a certain time of year, I’m going to strut around in it anytime of the year, including now especially since it’s in viscose challis as it is such a great fabric for hot humid weather due to its breathable properties. Hurrah! 

The Sewing Process …

Firstly, the instructions are impeccable. Lots of detail and it’s clear. However, there is a lot (and that’s an understatement!), of gathering for the dress skirt. I’ve a clear love/hate relationship with gathering. I love the volume and effect that it brings to the garment but I hate (actually, my hands and the pins - thanks but no, thanks to carpal tunnel!) the time-consuming part of it. But is it worth it, heck yeah! 

To determine my size I looked at my body measurements and then the finished garment measurements. For most garments these days I don’t have a straight size, I don’t think I have ever had a straight size but over the years I’ve really finessed my grading. I usually range over three sizes, starting with the smallest size for my bust to the largest at my full hips. Depending on how much the positive or negative ease is on the pattern that determines what size I land with. For the Nicks Dress, I went with sizes 20, 26 and 28. 

As the Closet Core Patterns are designed for with the height of 5’6” I needed to take some length out of the bodice, both front and back. I usually take 2” out and this does fine. This is a standard adjustment and seems to work well. 

I’ve taken off 1”-2” of each tier so that I’m not Tripping myself up and I keep the right length as the designed pattern. 

I love the small details that bring this dress together, even though it calls for a lot of gathering the dress is delicate but shouts out a statement. I’m loving this bohemian style and the little extra details such as the buttons from Pigeon Wishes. 

Sure this dress has a lot of meterage for the hem and also, (if you’ve missed it) gathering but would it put me off making another Nicks Dress? Hmmm - No! I love mine, particularly in this daring “Persian Red”! 

Pattern: Closet Core Nicks Dress Fabric: Viscose Challis in Persian Red About Emma: Emma is based just outside Edinburgh and hasn't strayed too far from her hometown. There's just something magical about Scotland just as there is about creating a wardrobe from your own hands. Dressmaking isn't her only creative outlook as Emma dabbles in some silver clay jewellery and loves photography.