In our next ambassador post we welcome another new Ambassador, Amelia, who has made the Closet Core Pietra Shorts, amazingly in the very same gorgeous soft Peppered Cotton: Ink that Monica used last week to make her Edie.  This fabric is the bomb!  Over to Amelia:

This summer has been a scorcher and if there is one thing that I have noticed is missing from my wardrobe, it is shorts. I have quite a difference between my waist and hip measurements, so finding ready-to-wear shorts and trousers that fit has always been an issue for me. When I saw the beautiful, peppered cottons on the Backstitch shop, I knew exactly what I wanted to make with them – shorts!

I settled on the Pietra Shorts by Closet Core Patterns. These come as trousers or shorts. The trousers can be made in a wide leg or tapered leg style and the shorts have a gentle flare. All three views have a flat front, and an elasticated back waistband. My only issue with the pattern was that I dislike elastic waistbands. I am probably one of the few people who prefer a fitted waistband, but there it is.  So straightaway I knew I would have to hack the pattern to remove the elastic from the back of the shorts.

The first thing I did was to decide on a size. My waist measurement is 30 inches, and my hips are 41 inches, so this placed me in between a size 10 and 12 for the waist and a 14 for the hips. In the end, I decided to make a size 12 at the waist, grading to a size 14 at the hip.

To remove the elasticated back waistband I began by adding length to the top of the back short pattern piece to make up for removing the back waistband. I also added two darts on each of the back pieces to take out the fullness and to make the overall measurement equal to my 30 inch waist. Then I drafted a new back facing piece. Finally, I added two inches of length to the shorts to give them the slightly longer inseam that I prefer. I sewed up a quick toile to check my maths was correct, and then I was ready to cut into my final fabric.

I wanted to use a stable fabric that would hold the style lines of the pattern in a versatile colour that would go with lots of other items in my wardrobe. In the end, I settled on the ‘Ink’ colourway of the peppered cotton. It was so easy to work with. It pressed well, sewed up easily and holds the shape of the shorts well without being too heavy to wear. I also really like the colour!

I always enjoy sewing Closet Core patterns. The instructions are excellent and are clearly explained with helpful pictures throughout. This was especially good when constructing the pockets on the front of the shorts. It was quite a different process from other patterns I have made, but the instructions were clear, and I love the finished look of the large, slanted pockets. Closet Core also have extra tutorials and hacks on their website. I knew I would need to add an invisible zip to the centre back seam in order to get these shorts on and off, and there was a great tutorial on their website for adding an invisible zip to this pattern.

The adjustments I made to the pattern worked well, although I did end up having to take out quite a lot of fullness in the back of the shorts. Next time I make the pattern I will size down to a 10 at the waist, and 12 at the hip so that the darts are not quite so huge! Nevertheless, I am so happy with the overall fit of the shorts. They are comfortable to wear, and I have been reaching for them so much already. I think they will transition well into Autumn too with trainers and a sweater on cooler September mornings.

I am definitely going to make another pair of these shorts next summer, and in the meantime, I am planning on making a pair of the wide leg Pietra Pants soon, perhaps in a cotton drill, or a wool blend, ready for the winter.

* In the photos Amelia has styled the Pietra shorts with a RTW t-shirt, and the ‘Atlas Top’ by Stitch Witch Patterns, made in the same peppered cotton.

Pattern: Closet Core Pietra Pants and Shorts (View C)
Fabric: Peppered Cotton in Ink
Size: Amelia measures Bust 35”, W 30”, H41” Height 5’5” and made a size 12 at the waist, graded to a 14 at the hips.
Adjustments: Removed the elastic waistband and added darts instead. Drafted a new back facing and added an invisible zip to the centre back seam. Added two inches of length to the inseam.
Notes on future makes: Will size down to a size 10/12 in order to make the darts in the back of the shorts a little smaller.

About Amelia:
Amelia is a sewist, vlogger and fabric lover who is busy making a handmade wardrobe for herself and her children.
Instagram: www.instagram.com/sewamelia/
Youtube: Sew Amelia